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Large swell waves with a long period breaking on a beach slope tend to have a large swash with water washed well up the beach. This is often unexpected and takes people by surprise and can cause damage and casualties. Users should note when large waves with a long period are forecast to run onto an exposed coast. Extreme forecast index products for waves can alert users to the potential problem.
Fig2.2-15: Wave energy forecast VT 09UTC 16 Sep 2023, DT 12UTC 15 Sep 2023. The chart shows extreme wave energy flux (~1300KW/m) being driven towards the exposed southern coast of South Africa.
Fig2.2-16: Wave energy forecast VT 09UTC 16 Sep 2023, DT 12UTC 15 Sep 2023. The chart shows the extreme forecast index for significant wave height at 0.9 to 1.0 alerting to the significant nature of the ocean swell.
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